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Amigurumi Astrid The Chirstmas Fairy Free Crochet Pattern

Hello dear Amigurumi Knitting Lovers
Today we share a free amigurumi crochet pattern for you. As you know, we share new amigurumi free patterns every day. master crochets, amigurumi gazelles, amigurumi bears, amigurumi pola, amigurumi pandas, amigurumi penguins, amigurumi giraffes, amigurumi lama, amigurumi pigs, amigurumi rabbit, amigurumi clowns, amigurumi dolls, amigurumi unicorn, amigurumi elephants, amigurumi unicorn , amigurumi hippos, amigurumi monkeys, amigurumi cats, amigurumi dogs and more…

Today, the new daily crochet pattern Amigurumi Astrid The Chirstmas Fairy Crochet Pattern, I want to give you some information about this pattern;

MATERIALS

1.Yarn:

YarnArt Jeans yarn (50g/160m) of skin color (number 07) – 1
skein
YarnArt Jeans yarn (50g/160m) of white color (number 01) –
1.5 of a skein
YarnArt Jeans yarn (50g/160m) of red color (number 26) – a
half of a skein
YarnArt Jeans yarn (50g/160m) of green color (number 69) – a
half of a skein (if you are going to make a cap using this yarn,
then you will need a whole skein)
YarnArt Jeans yarn (50g/160m) of yellow color (number 35) –
a small amount
YarnArt Jeans yarn (50g/160m) of cream color (number 86) –
a small amount
Alize Cotton Gold yarn (100g/330m) of caramel color (number
499) – less than a half of a skein
Alize Softy yarn (50g/115m) of white color (number 55) – a
half of a skein
Mouline thread/yarn thread of brown color for face details

  1. 10 mm safety eyes.
  2. Fiberfill (hollow fiber).
  3. 2 mm crochet hook Clover (or 1.75 mm of any other brand) –
    US 4.
  4. 2.5 mm crochet hook Clover (or 2.25 mm of any other brand) –
    US B/1.
  5. 1 mm copper wire for frame.
  6. Needle, scissors, pins.
  7. Stitch marker.
  8. Adhesive tape or masking tape for wrapping the wire.
  9. 10 mm buttons for coat – 3 pc.

NOTE :

My doll measures
about 28,5 cm (11.2
inches) (without a hat

YarnArt Jeans yarn can be
substituted with Alize
Cotton Gold of matching
color and vice versa. But pay
attention, that Alize is a bit
thinner (100g/330m) and it
can affect the toy size.

Also the toy size depends
largely on the technique
you crochet single crochet
stitches (V-shaped sc, Xshaped sc, semi-X shaped
sc). I give the information
about differences between
these methods in the next
page.

My stitches have semi-X
shape. If you use the
technique which creates “V
shaped” stitches, then your
doll would probably be
bigger.

V AND X SHAPED STITCHES

Single crochet stitches can have a shape of “V” or “X”. The
shape our stitches get depends on the way we grab the
working thread when crocheting.

«V-shape (Yarn over technique)». This way is counted as a
classic one. In this case we insert the hook into the stitch
(photo 1) and you place your hook under the yarn (photo 2).
And pull the yarn over the hook from back to front (photo
3). Then pull the yarn in the same way (photo 4) and finish
the stitch.

«X-shape (Yarn under technique)». In this case we insert
the hook into the stitch (photo 5) and place your hook over
the yarn (photo 6). Pull the yarn through (photo 7). Then pull
the yarn one more time in the same way (photo 8) and finish
the stitch.

NOTE:

The way you crochet
your stitches play an
important role. My
stitches have a “semi-X”
shape

When you work in “yarn
over technique”, your
crochet pattern becomes
more smooth, and the
fabric will be more
stretchy.

When you do “yarn under”,
the fabric becomes more
relief and dense because of
twisting the loops.

ABBREVIATIONS

MR – magic ring
ch – chain
sc – single crochet
hdc – half double crochet
dc – double crochet
tr – treble crochet
dec – decrease
inc – increase
sl st – slip stitch
(..)*n – repeat the combination in
parentheses n times
(x) – at the end of every round I write a
total number of stitches in parentheses
In this pattern we use US terminology.

NOTE:

The toy pieces are crocheted in a
spiral without making a turning chain
(until otherwise stated).

For working at this toy I use invisible
decreases:
I insert the crochet hook into the front loop of
the first stitch, don’t pull the thread and at
once insert the hook into both loops of the
second stitch, pull the thread through all
stitches on the hook.

In some cases you will need to work classical
decreases:
insert the crochet hook under both loops of
the first stitch, grab the yarn, then insert the
hook under both loops of the next stitch, grab
the thread and pull through all loops on the
hook.

ARMS

Make two identical pieces. The arms are
crocheted separately and they will be joined with
the body. The arms don’t need to be stuffed.
Crochet with the yarn of skin color in a spiral,
use a 2 mm crochet hook Clover (or 1.75 mm of
any other brand)

1 round: 6sc in MR (6)
2 round: (inc, 1sc)*3 (9)
3-5 rounds: 9sc (9) – 3 rounds
6 round: bobble st, consisting из of 3dc, 8sc (9)
7 round: dec, 7sc (8)
8-33 rounds: 8sc (8) – 26 rounds
Fold the arm in half and work several sc
additionally to shift the thumb to the arm side
(for the right arm and for the left one). Cut the
thread and fasten off

Prepare the wireframe. At first make a frame for
arms. Cut two pieces of wire using cutters. The
length of the pieces should equal about 18 cm.
Bend one of the wire ends, like in the photo
(photo 2), and wrap them with adhesive tape or
with masking tape across the whole length
(photo 3).
Now prepare the frame for the legs. Cut two
more pieces of wire with the length of about 28
cm (the doll size). These pieces will be located
inside of the legs, go through the body and the
neck. Bend the ends of the wire on one end, like
in the photo (photo 2), and wrap a half of their
length with adhesive tape or with masking tape
(photo 3).

LEGS

For the legs we will need three colors: red and white – for
socks – and green – for the legs themselves. Use a 2 mm
crochet hook Clover (or 1.75 mm of any other brand).

Srart crocheting in red color:
1 round: 6sc in MR (6)
2 round: 6sc (6)
3 round: 2inc, 4sc (8)
4 round: 8sc (8)
Crochet 2sc additionally, change the thread color to white.
Place marker, don’t cut the thread.
5 round: 1sc, inc, 3sc, inc, 2sc (10)
6 round: 2sc, 2inc, 6sc (12) – when crocheting the last
stitch change the thread color to red
7 round: 12sc (12) – when crocheting the last stitch change
the thread color to white
8 round: 12sc (12)
9 round: 4sc, 2inc, 6sc (14) – when crocheting the last
stitch change the thread color to red
10 round: 14sc (14) – when crocheting the last stitch
change the thread color to white
11-12 rounds: 14sc (14) – 2 rounds – when crocheting the
last stitch change the thread color to red
Crochet 4sc additionally, make ch and turn the work. Now
we need to form a heel. For this work several turning rows
in red color (photo 5).

Turning rows:
1 round: 1sc, 6hdc, 1sc, ch, turn (8)
2 round: 2sc, dec, 1sc, dec, 1sc, ch, turn (6)
3 round: 3dec, ch, turn (3) – classical decreases
4 round: triple decrease (crochet 3 sc together), don’t make
ch, don’t turn and place marker (photos 7-8).

Add fiberfill to the foot, but don’t stuff too tight

Now we are going to crochet in a spiral.
13 round: along the red part 2sc, dec, along the white part into
front loops inc, 4sc, inc, along the red part into both loops dec,
2sc (14) – when crocheting the last stitch change the thread
color to white.
Take one of the wire pieces we prepared for the legs, bend one
of the ends, like in the photo 9. Insert the frame into the foot
and add enough fiberfill. Continue crocheting and add fibrefill
as you go.
14 round: dec, 2sc, into front loops 6sc, into both loops 2sc, dec
(12)
15 round: 12sc (12) – when crocheting the last stitch change the
thread color to red
Cut the white thread and fasten off.
16 round: dec, 3sc, 2inc, 3sc, dec (12)
17 round: 3hdc, 6sc, 3hdc (12) – when crocheting the last stitch
change the thread color to green
Cut the red thread and fasten off.
18 round: into back loops of stitches 12sc (12)
19-37 rounds: 12sc (12) – 19 rounds
Check the marker position, it should be located exactly in the
middle of the back side on the leg (photo 12).
38 round: 5sc, 2inc, 5sc (14)
39 round: inc into front loop, 4sc, 4hdc, 4sc, inc into front loop
(16)

0 round: 6sc, 2dec, 6sc (14)
41-48 rounds: 14sc (14) – 8 rounds
Worl several sc additionally to finish crocheting exactly in
the middle of the inner side on the leg (at the point, where
the leg will be joined with the other one). Cut the thread
and fasten off.
Take Alize Softy yarn. Turn the leg with the shoe facing up
and crochet 12sc around the sock edge into front loops of
stitches in round 17. Weave in all your thread tails inside of
the legs.
Crochet the second leg in the same way.

!!

Pay attention! The left edge of the piece is often
turns out lower than the right edge. Therefore for the
second leg I add one more round. Put both legs near
each other and compare their length. If your first leg
is longer than the second one, then we need to add
one more round for the second leg, like I did. If your
legs look equal, then just start joining them

Work several sc till the middle of the right side on the leg (I
worked 6sc). Don’t cut the thread after finishing the second
leg and continue crocheting.
Make ch4. Now we are going to join the legs. Insert the
hook into the next stitch on the first leg (photo 16) and
work 6 sc, place marker (photo 17). Now the beginning of
rounds will be here. Start crocheting the body.

BODY

Continue crocheting in green color and stuff as you go. The
next round will be the first round of the body.
1 round: along the leg 8sc, along the chain inc, 2sc, inc,
along the other leg 14sc, along the chain inc, 2sc, inc, along
the leg 6sc (40)

Now let’s work with the wireframe. Bend the wire ends from
both legs towards each other at the right angles. Then twist
them around each other. Wrap the wire with a masking tape
or with adhesive tape.
2-13 rounds: 40sc (40) – 12 rounds – when crocheting the last
stitch change the thread color to white, cut the green thread
14 round: into back loops of stitches 40sc (40)
15-23 rounds: into both loops of stitches 40sc (40) – 9 rounds
(photo 19)
Check the marker location, it should be located exactly in the
middle of the body side (photo 20).
24 round: (dec, 18sc)*2 (38)

In the next round we are going to join the arms. Unravel or
crochet a pair of stitches additionally so that the arms are
located symmetrically on the body sides according to the
pattern: 3 stitches – for the first arm, 17 stitches – for the
front side, 3 stitches – for the second arm, 15 stitches – for the
back side. Place marker. Pay attention, that the thumbs should
be facing forward.
25 round: 3sc along the body and the inner side of the first
arm, 17sc, 3sc along the body and the inner side of the second
arm, 15sc along the back side (38)

26 round: 5sc along the outer side of the arm, 3sc, dec, 7sc,
dec, 3sc, 5sc along the outer side of the arm, 15sc (40)
Now take the wire we have prepared for arms and insert the
pieces into both arms. Bend both wire ends towards each other
and then twist them around the main frame. Wrap the part of
the wireframe with a masking tape or adhesive tape (the part
which will be located inside of the neck).

27 round: 40sc (40)
28 round: (6sc, dec)5 (35) 29 round: (5sc, dec)5 (30)
30 round: (3sc, dec)6 (24) 31 round: (2sc, dec)6 (18) – when crocheting the last stitch
change the thread color to skin
Cut the thread of white color and fasten off.
32 round: into back loops of stitches 18sc (18)
33-38 rounds: 18sc (18) – 6 rounds
Work several sc additionally to finish crocheting exactly in the
middle of the back side on the neck. Cut the thread, leaving a
long thread tail for sewing.

Now cut the excess length of wire (leaving a pair of cm, which
will be located inside of the head). Then bend the wire ends
downwards and wrap them with masking tape or with adhesive
tape.

SKIRT

Go back to round 14 on the body, where we crocheted into
back loops of stitches. Take a white thread and attach it to the
front loop of stitch in the middle of the back side on the body.
Turn the toy with the toes facing up, make ch and start
crocheting the skirt in a spiral.
Crochet the first round of the skirt in single crochet stitch using
a 2 mm crochet hook Clover. The rest rounds should be
crocheted in double crochet stitch.
1 round: (inc, 1sc)20 (60) 2 round: ch3, (2dc inc, 1dc)20 (100)

3 round: ch3, (1dc, 2dc inc, 2dc)20, sl st into ch of the previous round (140) 4 round: ch3, (2dc, 2dc inc, 3dc)20, sl st into ch of the
previous round (180)
5 round: ch3, (3dc, 2dc inc, 4dc)20, sl st into ch of the previous round (220) 6 round: ch3, (4dc, 2dc inc, 5dc)20, sl st into ch of the
previous round (260)
7 round: ch3, (5dc, 2dc inc, 6dc)2sl st into ch of the previous round (300) 8 round: ch3, (6dc, 2dc inc, 7dc)20, sl st into ch of the
previous round (340)
Finish crocheting with sl st, cut the thread and fasten off.
Weave in the thread tail on the wrong side of the skirt.

HEAD

Crochet with the yarn of skin color and a 2 mm crochet hook
Clover (or a 1.75 mm crochet hook of any other brand). Stuff
as you go.
1 round: 6sc in MR (6)
2 round: 6inc (12)
3 round: (1sc, inc)6 (18) 4 round: (2sc, inc)6 (24)
5 round: (3sc, inc)6 (30) 6 round: (2sc, inc, 2sc)6 (36)
7 round: (5sc, inc)6 (42) 8 round: (3sc, inc, 3sc)6 (48)
9 round: (7sc, inc)6 (54) 10 round: (4sc, inc, 4sc)6 (60)
11-26 rounds: 60sc (60) – 16 rounds
Insert the safety eyes between rounds 21 and 22, the
distance between the points, where the stems are inserted,
should equal 14 stitches.
27 round: (4sc, dec, 4sc)6 (54) 28 round: (7sc, dec)6 (48)
29 round: (3sc, dec, 3sc)6 (42) 30 round: (5sc, dec)6 (36)
31 round: (2sc, dec, 2sc)6 (30) 32 round: (3sc, dec)6 (24)
33 round: (2sc, dec)*6 (18)
Cut the thread and fasten off. Add fiberfill.

EARS

Crochet in skin color.
The right ear:
1 row: form MR, leaving a thread tail for sewing, and crochet
starting from it ch3, now crochet all the stitches into the
magic ring: 2tr, 2dc, 2sc, turn (6) – pull the MR closed
2 row: from the second stitch from the hook 3sl st, ch3, 2dc
(6) Cut the thread.
The left ear:
1 row: form MR, leaving a thread tail for sewing, and crochet in the mirrored way starting from
it: 2sc, 2dc, 2tr, ch2, turn (6) – pull the MR closed
2 row (short row): 2dc (2) Cut the thread.

NEDDLE SCULPTING

For the needle sculpting use the thread of the same color as we used for the body. Take a thread
about 30 cm long. The points for the needle sculpting are shown in photo 32. Thread the needle
and insert it into point 1 (on the head bottom under the chin) (photo 33). This point is located
between the last and the second-to-last rounds on the head.

Pull the thread out from point 2 (near the eye), leaving a
thread tail to tie a knot later. Then insert the needle into
point 3 (photo 34), leaving 2 rounds up from point 2, and run
it inside of the piece to the point 4 (near the other eye). Pull
the thread. Now insert the needle into point 5 (leaving 2
rounds down) and pull out from point 6 (point 6 is located,
leaving one stitch to the left from point 1).
Pull the thread tails carefully, so that the eyes were slightly
pushed into the head fabric. Tie the thread tails with 1-2 right
knots. Our needle sculpting is ready.

FACE DETAILS

Embroider the nose using the thread of skin color between
rounds 21 and 22 in the middle of the distance between the
eyes, make several horizontal stitches (photo 36). The width of
the nose is 3 stitches. Don’t weave in the thread tail, we will use
it to embroider the eyelids.
Take the white thread and make two stitches near each eye
around the outer part, like in photo 38, pulling the needle as
close to the eye as possible. Fasten off the white thread and
weave in inside of the head.

Embroider the upper eyelids with the thread which was left
after we finished the nose (photo 40). Pull the thread near the
eye as close as possible in the middle, make a short stitch with
the length of 3-4 stitches, insert the needle, leaving 1 stitch
from the white part and about a half of the eye down. The
eyelid should cover the top edge o the eye slightly and touch
the white stitches. Cut the beige thread and fasten off.

Now take the brown mouline thread or divide the piece of
brown yarn into separate threads.
Embroider one thin stripe of eyelashes above the eyelid
(photo 41). Then embroider the eyebrows (photo 42). The top
point of the eyebrow should be located, leaving 4 rounds up
from the eyes, and the lower point – leaving 2 rounds up from
the eyes. The length of one eyebrow is 5 stitches. The
distance between the eyebrows is 8 stitches.
Sew the ears. Fix the ears on the head, leaving 3-4 stitches
from the eyelids (photo 43). They should be located a bit
lower than the eyes level, between rounds 8 and 11 (count
from the end of the work). Sew the ears. Weave in all the
thread tails inside of the head.

HAIR

Crochet with the yarn of caramel color in rounds. At first we
need to make a wig, then we will crochet the hair strands
around the wig edge. Use a 2 mm crochet hook (or a 1.75 mm
crochet hook of any other brand).
1 round: 6sc in MR (6)
2 round: 6inc (12)
3 round: (1sc, inc)6 (18) 4 round: (2sc, inc)6 (24)
5 round: (3sc, inc)6 (30) 6 round: (4sc, inc)6 (36)
7 round: (5sc, inc)6 (42) 8 round: (6sc, inc)6 (48)
9 round: (7sc, inc)6 (54) 10 round: (8sc, inc)6 (60)
11 round: (9sc, inc)*6 (66)
12-18 rounds: 66sc (66) – 7 rounds
Try the wig on the doll’s head to check it it fits the toy (photos
46-47)

Now we crochet the round with the braids: 11sc,
make ch24 (photo 48), from the second ch from
the hook along the chain 15sl st, 8sc, sl st into
the next stitch on the wig, turn the work and
then crochet along the same hair strand
(skipping slip stitch) 7sc, sl st, turn the work and
crochet along the hair strand in the opposite
direction (skipping slip stitch) 7sl st, sl st into the
next stitch on the wig. Make 3 identical hair
strands, then work sl st into the next stitch on
the wig and make ch9, crochet from the second
ch from the hook 8sl st along the chain, 2sl st
along the wig. Work 14 hair strands, then
crochet sl st into the next stitch on the wig.
Work three long hair strands again for the braid.
Finish crocheting with sl st into the next stitch
on the wig, cut the thread, leaving a long thread
tail for sewing.

HAIRSTYLE

To decorate the braids we need to make 2
identical red circles. Work 7sc in MR, finish
crocheting with sl st into the first stitch. Cut the
thread, leaving a tails to tie around the braid
tips.
Put the circles aside and start assembling

ASSEMBLY

Put the wig on the doll’s head, placing the lower
edge between rounds 11 and 12 (count from the
end of the work), and the upper edge with the
hair – between rounds 25 and 26 (count from the
end of the work) (photo 53). Fix with pins and
sew (photos 54-55). I described the location of
the wig that fits my fairy. You can place the wig
in any way you like.

Braid the hair strands, tie the red circles around
the tips of the braids and cut the excess length
of the thread

Put the head on the doll’s neck in the way that
the eyes are looking straight. Sew the head.
When sewing insert the needle between stitches
and go over the stitch body and over the stitch
on the neck. Add fiberfill if needed.

PAINTING

You can paint the face of your fairy if you want: add blushes to the cheeks, above the nose and
add shadows above the eyes.
For painting you can use hard pastels or decorative cosmetics and a brush.
Paint the cheeks with any pink color you like, add brown tint to the area above the eyes and
above the nose. Paint a mouth if desired

Our fairy is finished!!

COAT

Crochet using a 2 mm crochet hook Clover. The coat is
crocheted in turning rows from the top to the bottom.
Make ch25 and crochet from the second ch from the
hook:

1 row: (3sc, inc)6, ch, turn (30) 2 row: 5sc, inc, 3sc, inc, 10sc, inc, 3sc, inc, 5sc, ch, turn (34) 3 row: 6sc, inc, 3sc, inc, 12sc, inc, 3sc, inc, 6sc, ch, turn (38) 4 row: 7sc, inc, 3sc, inc, 14sc, inc, 3sc, inc, 7sc, ch, turn (42) 5 row: 8sc, inc, 3sc, inc, 16sc, inc, 3sc, inc, 8sc, ch, turn (46) 6 row: 9sc, inc, (1sc, inc)2, 18sc, (inc, 1sc)2, inc, 9sc, ch, turn (52) 7 row: 10sc, inc, 4sc, inc, 20sc, inc, 4sc, inc, 10sc, ch, turn (56) In the next row we are going to form the sleeves. 8 row: 9sc, inc, make ch6, skip 9 stitches, from the 10th stitch inc, 16sc, inc, make ch6, skip 9 stitches, from the 10th stitch inc, 9sc, ch, turn (54) – photo 60 9 row: 11sc, 6sc along the chain, 20sc, 6sc along the chain, 11sc, ch, turn (54) 10 row: 9sc, (dec, 2sc)2, dec, 16sc, dec, (2sc, dec)*2, 9sc,
ch, turn (48)
11-17 rows: 48sc

18 row: 10sc, make ch10, crochet along the chain from the
second ch from the hook 4sl st, 4sc, dc, one more dc into the
stitch, from where we started crocheting the chain, skip 1
stitch, sl st into the next stitch, then crochet along the main
piece 24sc, make ch10, crochet along the chain from the
second ch from the hook 4 sl st, 4sc, dc, one more dc into the
stitch, from where we started to make the chain, skip 1 stitch,
sl st into the next stitch, 9sc, 3sc into the last stitch (68) (photo
63)

Then don’t turn the work and crochet along the forepart edge,
work 3 turning rows (photo 64)

1 turning row: 17sc, ch, turn (17)
2-3 turning rows: 20sc, ch, turn (20)

After finishing the third turning row don’t make ch and don’t
turn the work, work 2sc more into the edge stitch, then crochet
sc across the neckline, crochet till the edge of the second
forepart, also crochet 3sc into the edge stitch.
Here we need to crochet 4 turning rows along the second
forepart, forming the openings for the buttons.

1 turning row: 17sc, ch, turn (17)
2 turning row: 20sc, ch, turn (20)
3 turning row: 2sc, make ch3 and skip the next 3 stitches, from the
4th stitch 4sc, make ch3 and skip the next 3 stitches, from the 4th
stitch 4sc, make ch3 and skip the next 3 stitches, from the 4th
stitch 1sc, ch, turn (20)
4 turning row: 20sc (20)

After we finish round 4 cut the thread and fasten off. Weave in
the thread tails on the wrong side of the piece.
Now we are going to crochet the sleeves. Attach the thread to
the middle point on the lower edge of the opening (photo 67).
Crochet in turning rows.

1 row: ch, 17sc (9sc on the top edge, 6sc on the lower edge, and
1sc into each corner), sl st into ch, turn (17)
2-10 rows: ch, 17sc, sl st into ch, turn (17) – 9 rows
11 row: ch, 2sc, inc, 11sc, inc, 2sc, sl st into ch, turn (19)
12 row: ch, 19sc, sl st into ch, turn (19)
13 row: ch, 3sc, inc, 11sc, inc, 3sc, sl st into ch, turn (21)
14 row: ch, 21sc, sl st into ch, turn (21)
15 row: ch, 4sc, inc, 11sc, inc, 4sc, sl st into ch, turn (23)
16 row: ch, 23sc, sl st into ch, turn (23)
17 row: ch, 5sc, inc, 11sc, inc, 5sc, sl st into ch, turn (25)
18 row: ch, 25sc, sl st into ch (25) – change to white yarn Alize
Softy, don’t turn the work and then crochet in rounds
19-20 rounds: 25sc (25) – 2 rounds
Cut the thread and fasten off, weave in the thread tail on the
wrong side of the piece.
Place 3 buttons on the left forepart and sew them using the red
thread.
Bells (2 pieces). Crochet in yellow color. Add some fiberfill as
you crochet.

1 round: 6sc in MR (6)
2 round: 6inc (12)
3-4 rounds: 12sc (12) – 2 rounds
5 round: 6dec (6)
Cut the thread and fasten off, leaving a thread
tail for sewing. Pull the opening closed. Sew
the bells to the straps on the coat.

HAT

Main piece. Crochet with Alize Softy yarn of white color and a
2.5 mm crochet hook Clover. Make ch60 and join in a circle.
Try the chain around the head. Crochet in rounds in double
crochet stitch.
1-5 rounds: ch3, 60dc, sl st into ch (60) – 5 rounds
6 round: ch3, (4dc, dc dec)10, sl st into ch (50) 7 round: ch3, (3dc, dc dec)10, sl st into ch (40)
8 round: ch3, 40dc, sl st into ch (40)
9 round: ch3, (2dc, dc dec)10, sl st into ch (30) 10 round: ch3, 30dc, sl st into ch (30) 11 round: ch3, (1dc, dc dec)10, sl st into ch (20)
12-14 rounds: ch3, 20dc, sl st into ch (20) – 3 rounds
15 round: ch3, 10dc dec, sl st into ch (10)
16 round: ch3, 10dc, sl st into ch (10)
17 round: ch3, (1dc, dc dec)*3, 1dc, sl st into ch (7)
18 round: ch3, 7dc, sl st into ch (7)
Pull the opening closed, weave in the thread tails.

Leaves (9 pieces). Crochet with the green yarn and use a 2 mm
crochet hook Clover.
Make ch6, from the second ch from the hook 2 sl st, 1sc, ch4,
along the chain from the second ch from the hook 2 sl st, 1sc,
ch3, along the chain from the second ch from the hook 2 sl st,
1sc into the middle of the leaf, ch3, along the chain from the
second ch from the hook 2 sl st, 1sc along the main piece, 1sc
into the middle of the leaf, ch3, along the chain from the
second ch from the hook 2 sl st, 1sc along the main piece, 2 sl
st. Cut the thread and fasten off, leaving a tail (photo 73).
Berries (3 pieces). Crochet with the yarn of red color and use a
2 mm crochet hook Clover.
Work 7sc into MR, finish crocheting with sl st into the first
stitch. Cut the thread (photo 74).

Bell. Crochet in yellow color. Add some fiberfill as you go.
1 round: 6sc in MR (6)
2 round: 6inc (12)
3-4 rounds: 12sc (12) – 2 rounds
5 round: 6dec (6)
Cut the thread and fasten off. Pull the opening closed, weave
in the thread tail.
Start assembling the branches. Join three leaves (photo 76),
sew the berry (photo 77). Sew the branches and the bell to
the hat. Weave in all the thread tails on the wrong side of the
piece.

SEMI COTTON CAP

Main piece. Crochet in green yarn YarnArt Jeans and use a 2
mm crochet hook Clover. Make ch60 and join in a circle
(photo 82). Try the chain around the head. Crochet in
rounds in double crochet stitch.
1-7 rounds: ch3, 60dc, sl st into ch (60) – 7 rounds
8 round: ch3, (8dc, dc dec)6, sl st into ch (54) 9-10 rounds: ch3, 54dc, sl st into ch (54) – 2 rounds 11 round: ch3, (7dc, dc dec)6, sl st into ch (48)
12-13 rounds: ch3, 48dc, sl st into ch (48) – 2 rounds
14 round: ch3, (6dc, dc dec)6, sl st into ch (42) 15-16 rounds: ch3, 42dc, sl st into ch (42) – 2 rounds 17 round: ch3, (5dc, dc dec)6, sl st into ch (36)
18-19 rounds: ch3, 36dc, sl st into ch (36) – 2 rounds
20 round: ch3, (4dc, dc dec)6, sl st into ch (30) 21-22 rounds: ch3, 30dc, sl st into ch (30) – 2 rounds 23 round: ch3, (3dc, dc dec)6, sl st into ch (24)
24-25 rounds: ch3, 24dc, sl st into ch (24) – 2 rounds
26 round: ch3, (2dc, dc dec)6, sl st into ch (18) 27-28 rounds: ch3, 18dc, sl st into ch (18) – 2 rounds 29 round: ch3, (1dc, dc dec)6, sl st into ch (12)
30-31 rounds: ch3, 12dc, sl st into ch (12) – 2 rounds
32 round: ch3, 6dc dec, sl st into ch (6)
33-34 rounds: ch3, 6dc, sl st into ch (6) – 2 rounds
35 round: ch3, 3dc dec, sl st into ch (3)
Cut the thread and fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing the
bell.
Bell. Crochet according to the same pattern, as the bell for
the fluffy hat. Cut the thread and fasten off, weave in the
thread tail.
Now assemble the hat. Sew the bell. Weave in all the thread
tails on the wrong side of the hat.

SCARF

Crochet in turning rows using a 2.5 mm crochet hook
Clover. Start crocheting with Softy yarn of white color.
Make ch9, crochet from the 2nd ch from the hook:
1-6 rows: 8sc, ch, turn (8) – 6 rows – when crocheting
the last stitch change the thread color to red, don’t cut
the thread of white color.
7-8 rows: 8sc, ch, turn (8) – 2 rows – when crocheting
the last stitch change the thread color to white, cut the
thread of red color.
Repeat rows 1-8 12 times more. There should be 13
rapports in total. Then work rows 1-6 one more time.
Now we can cut the threads and fasten off. Weave in
all the thread tails.

WINGS

Crochet with the yarn of cream color and a 2 mm
crochet hook Clover. The wings can be put on
and off and for them we need to make 4 wings
and one joining element with straps.
Joining circle. Crochet in a spiral.
1 round: 7sc in MR (7)
2 round: 7inc (14)
3 round: (inc, 1sc)7 (21) 4 round: (inc, 2sc)7 (28)
5 round: (inc, 3sc)7 (35) 6 round: (inc, 4sc)7 (42)

In the next round we will make the straps.
7 round: inc, 1sc, make ch36, crochet along the chain from the second ch from the hook 35 sl st,
now crochet along the main piece 4sc, inc, 4sc, make ch36, crochet along the chain from the
second ch from the hook 35 sl st, now crochet along the main piece 1sc, inc, 5sc, inc, 2sc, make
ch36, crochet along the chain from the second ch from the hook 35 sl st, now crochet along the
main piece 3sc, inc, 6sc, make ch36, crochet along the chain from the second ch from the hook 35
sl st, now crochet along the main piece sl st. We got the piece with 4 straps (photo 89).
Cut the thread and fasten off. Now crochet the wings.

Upper wings (2 pieces).
Crochet in cream color in a spiral.
1 round: 6sc in MR (6)
2 round: 6inc (12)
3 round: (inc, 1sc)6 (18) 4 round: (1sc, inc, 1sc)6 (24)
5 round: (inc, 3sc)6 (30) 6-15 rounds: 30sc (30) – 10 rounds 16 round: (dec, 13sc)2 (28)
17-19 rounds: 28sc (28) – 3 rounds
20 round: (dec, 12sc)2 (26) 21-22 rounds: 26sc (26) – 2 rounds 23 round: (dec, 11sc)2 (24)
24 round: 24sc (24)

25 round: (dec, 10sc)2 (22) 26 round: (dec, 9sc)2 (20)
27 round: (dec, 8sc)2 (18) 28 round: (dec, 7sc)2 (16)
29 round: (dec, 6sc)2 (14) 30 round: (dec, 5sc)2 (12)
31 round: (dec, 4sc)2 (10) 32 round: (dec, 3sc)2 (8)
33 round: (dec, 2sc)*2 (6)
Finish crocheting, pulling the opening closed through
the front loops of stitches. Cut the thread and fasten
off, weave in the thread tail inside of the piece.

The lower wings (2 pieces).
Crochet in cream color in a spiral.
1 round: 6sc in MR (6)
2 round: 6inc (12)
3 round: (inc, 1sc)6 (18) 4 round: (1sc, inc, 1sc)6 (24)
5-9 rounds: 24sc (24) – 5 rounds
10 round: (dec, 10sc)2 (22) 11-12 rounds: 22sc (22) – 2 rounds 13 round: (dec, 9sc)2 (20)
14-15 rounds: 20sc (20) – 2 rounds
16 round: (dec, 8sc)2 (18) 17-18 rounds: 18sc (18) – 2 rounds 19 round: (dec, 7sc)2 (16)
20-21 rounds: 16sc (16) – 2 rounds
22 round: (dec, 6sc)2 (14) 23-24 rounds: 14sc (14) – 2 rounds 25 round: (dec, 5sc)2 (12)
26 round: (dec, 4sc)2 (10) 27 round: (dec, 3sc)2 (8)
28 round: (dec, 2sc)*2 (6)

Cut the thread and fasten off, pull the opening closed through
the front loops of stitches. Weave in the thread tail inside of
the piece.
Sew the wings, placing them in the way shown in photo 90. Use
the same yarn for sewing them. Weave in all the thread tails
inside of the wing

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