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Today, the new daily crochet pattern Amigurumi Sailor Moon Doll Free Crochet Pattern, I want to give you some information about this pattern;

SUPPLIES

Yarn for the body: Dandy from Kamtex (cotton 50 g/330 m) Yarn for the hair, clothes, boots: Iris by Kirov Yarn Mills (cotton 25g/150 m) 

Eyes 5 mm and some strong glue if you are going to use it instead of sewing 

Fiberfill 

Thin beige yarn (Iris) for eyes shaping, thin black yarn (Iris) for the eyes 

0.75 mm hook (or any hook suitable for your yarn, the crocheting should be tight, without any holes) 

Pins, plaster 

Wire for the frame 2 mm thick (2 pieces) 

Pliers, scissors, sewing needle, stitch marker 

Super glue or В-6000 

Dry pastel (tinting) or blush for eyes, nose, ears 

White acrylic paint or white marker 

ATTENTION! 

Almost all the pieces (unless otherwise specified) should be stuffed tightly and evenly!!! 

ABBREVIATIONS 

MR – magic ring 

ch – chain 

tch – turning chain 

sc – single crochet 

DC – double crochet 

HDC – half double crochet 

inc – increase (2sc in one st) 

dec – decrease (2 st together) 

sl st – slip stitch 

r- round 

BLO – back loop only 

FLO – front loop only 

(..) * – repeat required number of stitches in brackets 

(…) – total number of stitches in a round

ARMS

Use white yarn:

1. 6 sc in a MR (6)
   2-12. 6 sc (11 rounds)
   Change yarn to beige color, cut white yarn
   13-20. 6 sc (8 rounds)
   Cut the thread leaving a tail for sewing.

Use red thread to wrap the color change between rounds 12 and 13.
I wrap the arm with the thread for 3-4 times. Secure it.
You can use any glue to secure the thread so that it holds tight.

Do not stuff the arms, or you can put a small ball of filler at the very
beginning so that the wire does not come out when making arms.

Right leg

Use red yarn to ch 4, start in the 2nd chain from the hook:

1. 2 sc, 2 sc in the last stitch, on the other side of the chain – 2 inc (8)
2. 7 sc, inc (9)
   3-4. 9 sc (2 rounds)

The heel is worked in rows:
4 sc, tch, turn
4 sc, tch, turn (picture 1)
4 sc, continue working in rounds

5. 5 sc on the leg, 4 sc on the heel (9)
   (picture 2)
   Place a marker of the beginning of the round.

Cut two pieces of wire about 16 cm long,
bend 1 end to make a loop (picture 3),
secure it with 2 turns of plaster.

Slightly bend the wire, making the heel (picture 4) and insert it into the foot.
Roll a small piece of filler and put it into the heel. Gradually filling, continue
crocheting the leg.
(I wrap the plaster around the wire until I get the thickness of the leg, but
you can just stuff the doll with filler, shaping the knees, hips and shoulders).

6-17. 9 sc (12 rounds) change yarn to beige color (picture 5)
18-20. 9 sc (3 rounds) make the knee:

21. 3 sc, (1 sc, 1 HDC) in the same stitch, (1 HDC, 1 sc) in the same stitch, 4 sc (11)
    Increases should be in the place of the knee (picture 6)
22. 11 sc (here you can put a small piece of filler to add volume)
23. 3 sc, 2 dec, 2 sc, inc, 1 sc (10) make decreases right above the increases.
    (see the finished knees in the pictures 7 and 8)

24-39. 10 sc (16 rounds)
The last round should end in the middle of the inner thigh.
Fasten off.

Left leg + body + head

Ch 4, start in the 2nd chain from the hook:

1. 2 sc, 2 sc in the last stitch, on the other side of the chain – 2 inc (8)
2. 7 sc, inc (9)
   3-4. 9 sc (2 rounds)
   The heel is worked in rows:
   4 sc, tch, turn
   4 sc, tch, turn
   4 sc, continue working in rounds
3. 5 sc on the leg, 4 sc on the heel (9) Place a marker of the beginning of the
   round.
   6-17. 9 sc (12 rounds)

ATTENTION! Before changing the yarn to skin color, put the two legs
together with toes towards you. It is necessary that the round with color
change on the left leg coincides with the same round on the right leg. If
these rounds do not coincide, add or undo rounds.

Change the yarn to beige color.
18-20. 9 sc (3 rounds) make the knee:

21. 3 sc, (1 sc, 1 HDC) in the same stitch, (1 HDC, 1 sc) in the same stitch, 4 sc
    (11)
22. 11 sc ( stuff just a little bit)
23. 3 sc, 2 dec, 2 sc, inc, 1 sc (10) make decreases right above the increases.
    24-39. 10 sc (16 rounds)

Crochet a few more sc on the left leg so that the round ends in the middle of
the inner thigh. Visually, the left leg will be 1 round higher.

Before joining the legs together, you need to wrap a white thread around the
line of color change between the boots and skin (picture 1)
Hide the yarn ends, cut them off. Then, just as we did on the arms, carefully,
use any glue to secure the thread so that it holds fast.

Continue crocheting the body:

Ch 5 from the left leg and attach the chain to the right leg. Place a marker of
the beginning of the round.

40. 10 sc on the right leg, 5 sc on the chain, 10 sc on the left leg, 5 sc on the
    chain (30)
    41-42. 10 sc, 5 HDC, 15 sc (30)

43. 17 sc (change the yarn to white color), 13 sc (30)
    Join the two pieces of wire in the middle, wrap it with the plaster; make sure
    that the legs are at the same height to each other. Stuff the doll tightly and
    gradually (picture 1).
44. 5 sc, dec, 13 sc, dec, 8 sc (28)
45. 11 sc, dec, 12 sc, dec, 1 sc (26)
46. 26 sc (picture 2) /place a contrasting thread in this round. Here we are
    going to sew the skirt on/

47. 4 sc, dec, 12 sc, dec, 6 sc (24)
48. 10 sc, dec, 10 sc, dec (22) Stuff tightly.

49 incomplete round. Work it exactly to the middle of the back and place
a marker of the beginning of a new round.

50-56. 22 sc (7 rounds)
If the marker is not in the middle of the back, then add or undo a few
stitches to get to the middle.

57. 4 sc, 2 dec, 6 sc, 2 dec, 4 sc (18)
58. 18 sc

Change the yarn to skin color.

59. (1 sc, dec), х 6 (12)
60. 6 dec (6)
    61-63. 6 sc (3) neck

Head

64. inc, 1 sc, inc, 1 sc, 2 inc (10)
65. FLO 10 inc (20)
66. 20 sc (pic 1)
67. (1 sc, inc) х 10 (30)
68. (4 sc, inc) х 6 (36)
69. (5 sc, inc) х 6 (42)
70. (6 sc, inc) х 6 (48)
    71-84. 48 sc (14 rounds) (picture 2)

85. (6 sc, dec) х 6 (42)
86. (5 sc, dec) х 6 (36)
87. (4 sc, dec) х 6 (30)
88. (3 sc, dec) х 6 (24)

Stuff it more tightly with a stick or tweezers, pay special attention to the
lower part of the head so that there are no creases.

89. (2 sc, dec) х 6 (18)
90. (1 sc, dec) х 6 (12)
91. 6 dec
    Fasten off. Cut the yarn leaving a long tail for embroidering the nose.

Now we are going to crochet the skirt. We will put it on through the legs.

SKIRT

Chain the number of stitches equal to the waist circumference,
without tightening the loops much. I chained 28 stitches. Join in the
round.

1. tch, 28 sc, sl st (here and in all the following rounds end crocheting
   with a slip stitch in the first stitch of a round).
2. ch 3, 27 DC, sl st

3. ch 3, DC inc in the same stitch where we made ch stitches. There
   should be 3 stitches in total (see picture).

Next, make a front post double crochet increase (3 fpDC behind one
stitch), inserting the hook BEHIND sc of the previous round (picture 1
and 2).

And again 3 DC in the same stitch (pictures 3 and 4).
The first round of folds is the most difficult, the main thing is to understand
how to make them)))

Then work a front post double crochet: 3 DC behind the post of the next
stitch (picture 1)
A fold is already done – the base for the folds on the skirt (picture 2)

As a result, there should be 14 folds (picture 3)

4. ch 3, 3 DC, (DC inc, 5 DC) х 13, DC inc, 1 DC, sl st (picture 4)
   Change yarn to white color.
   PLEASE NOTE that the remaining rounds are worked in half double crochet!

Work back loops only (BLO).

5. ch 3, 1 HDC, (HDC inc, 6 HDC) х 13, HDC inc, 4 HDC, sl st (picture 1)

Change yarn to blue color. Work
BLO.

6. ch 3, 6 HDC, (HDC inc, 7 HDC) х
   13, HDC inc, sl st
   Hide all the yarn ends and cut
   them off.

You can shape the folds with your fingers. Carefully put the skirt on through
the legs to the 46th round of the body, where you left the contrasting thread.
Sew on the skirt along the round. To keep the skirt from sticking out, press it
with an elastic band or thread, also shaping folds with tweezers (picture 2)

EARS + NOSE

Use skin color
3 DC in a MR. Tighten the ring, fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.
Count 16 rounds down from the last round of the head and sew the ears
between rounds 73-75, placing them symmetrically on the sides with pins.
The distance between the ears is 25 sc!

Please note that the yarn end left on each ear for sewing is located
differently. On the right ear – from below, on the left ear – from above. In my
opinion, this way the ears look the same )

Take the yarn end left from crocheting the body, thread it through a needle
and embroider the nose between 12th and 14th sc 1 round below the ears,
that is, make several stitches on the 13th sc.

Eye shaping and decoration

Mark the eyes with pins:
Two rounds above the nose. The distance between the eyes is 7 sc (picture 1)
Take a thread for tightening. Insert the needle from behind into the middle of
the lower part of the head (picture 2), take it out at point A, insert at point B
(the distance is one sc).
Then take the needle out at point C and insert it at point D skipping 1 sc.
Take the needle out in the same place behind the head where you inserted
the needle for the first time.

Tighten the thread on the back of the head, slightly deepening the eyes
with your fingers. Make a knot, hide the thread.

Glue the eyes in the deepening (picture 1)
Embroider upper eyelids with black thread (picture 2)
If desired, embroider the whites of the eyes (picture 3)

As an option for the eyes, you can draw them or
embroider. It all depends on your desire and skill. I
know that many people do not like eyes shaping ))
(Picture 3.1 shows an example of the eyes
decoration with acrylic paint by Karina from my
testing group)

BELT
Use white yarn to chain the number of stitches equal to the waist
circumference (I chained 26) picture 4
Try it on your doll.
Attach the belt, starting from the back, and carefully glue it (picture 5).

Arms (decoration)

Cut the wire about 9-10 cm long. Skip 3 rounds down from the neck and make
a through hole with an awl from one shoulder to the other. Insert the wire, put
the left arm on it.
Sew the arm to the body with the thread remaining on the arm.

Try on the right arm; if there is too much wire,
cut it off with pliers and sew on the right arm
similarly to the left one.
Then bend the arms pressing them to the
body.

Sailor collar

Use blue yarn to ch 13, start in the second chain from the hook:
1-8. 12 sc, tch, turn (8 rounds)
Next, crochet the right part of the collar:
1-3. 4 sc, tch, turn (3 rounds)

4. dec, 2 sc, tch, turn
5. 3 sc, tch, turn
6. dec, 1 sc, tch, turn
7. 2 sc, tch, turn
8. dec
   Fasten off.

The left part of the collar:

Count 4 sc from the left edge of the collar, attach the yarn and crochet:
1-3. 4 sc, tch, turn (3 rounds)

4. 2 sc, dec, tch, turn
5. 3 sc, tch, turn
6. 1 sc, dec, tch, turn
7. 2 sc, tch, turn
8. dec
   Crochet a row along the edge up to the 8th row of the right side of the collar

Secure this thread, do not cut it off, we are going to use it for sewing the
collar to the body. Hide and cut all the remaining yarn ends.
Use white yarn to make a border around the collar in chain stitch. Thus, you
will get a chain along the edge of the crochet collar. Make the stitches
loosely enough so that the collar does not tighten too much.
Fasten off.

Bow

Use red yarn for the first piece
Ch 2. Start in the second chain from the
hook:

1. 1 sc, tch, turn
2. inc, tch, turn
3. 2 sc, tch, turn
4. 2 inc, tch, turn
   5-9. 4 sc, tch, turn (5 rounds)
5. 2 dec, tch, turn
6. 2 sc, tch, turn
7. 2 inc, tch, turn
   13-17. 4 sc, tch, turn (5 rounds)
8. 2 dec, tch, turn
9. 2 sc, tch, turn
10. dec, tch, turn
    Next, crochet sc along the edge of the bow,
    cut the yarn, leave the yarn end about 25-30
    cm long (picture 1)

BOW (the 2nd piece)

Use red yarn to ch 6, leaving a tail about 6-7 cm long, start in the second
chain from the hook: 5 sc, ch 7, in the 2nd chain work 5 sc
Cut the yarn, leaving a yarn end about 6-7 cm long (picture 2)

ASSEMBLING THE BOW

Sew the ends of the first piece together (picture 1).
Then sew it in the middle, forming a seam. Do not fasten off (picture 2).
Take out the yarn ends of the second piece from both sides of the seam of
the first piece (picture 3).
Make a double knot, without tightening much, hide the yarn ends.
Then carefully wrap both pieces with the remaining long thread (picture 4).
Secure the thread from behind, do not cut it off.
Use yellow yarn to embroider a circle or an oval in the middle of the bow. Or
you can do as I did: use glue to glue a thread in a circle. Also you can use
yellow yarn to crochet 7 sc in a MR, close the ring and bring the yellow yarn
end to the wrong side of the bow, then glue the circle to the bow. Cut off the
yellow thread (picture 5).

Sew the sailor collar, applying it as in the picture. Hide all the yarn ends and
cut them off.

Sew the bow on. Insert a needle between the corners of the collar and take
it from the back. For reliability, I glue the bow with super glue, since it is very
difficult to sew such a small piece (picture).
Fasten off and weave in the yarn end.

HAIR

Use yellow yarn:

1. 8 sc in magic ring (8)
2. 8 inc (16)
3. (1 sc, inc) х 8 (24)
4. (2 sc, inc) х 8 (32)
5. (3 sc, inc) х 8 (40)
6. 40 sc, sl st (picture)
   Crochet strands of hair. The first strand is on the back of the head. If your
   strand is much shorter or longer than mine, then add or reduce the
   number of chain stitches.
   Do not crochet too tightly.
   TIP: work according to the circumference and height of your doll’s head,
   because everyone has different gauge.
   1-4 strand: ch 15, start in the second chain from the hook – 1 sl st, 1 sc, 12 HDC.
   Skip 1 sc and join the strand to the next stitch with a slip stitch.
   5 strand: ch 12, in the second chain – 1 sl st, 1 sc, 9 HDC.
   6 strand: ch 11, in the second chain – 1 sl st, 1 sc, 8 HDC
   7 strand: ch 10, in the second chain – 1 sl st, 1 sc, 7 HDC
   8 strand: ch 9, in the second chain – 1 sl st, 1 sc, 6 HDC
   9 strand: ch 8, in the second chain – 1 sl st, 1 sc, 5 HDC
   10 strand: ch 8, in the second chain – 1 sl st, 1 sc, 5 HDC
   11 strand: ch 9, in the second chain – 1 sl st, 1 sc, 6 HDC
   12 strand: ch 10, in the second chain – 1 sl st, 1 sc, 7 HDC
   13 strand: ch 11, in the second chain – 1 sl st, 1 sc, 8 HDC
   14 strand: ch 12, in the second chain – 1 sl st, 1 sc, 9 HDC.
   15-19 strand: ch 15, in the second chain from the hook work 1 sl st, 1 sc, 12
   HDC (see picture below)

CURLY STRANDS (2 pcs)

Leave the yarn end about 12 cm long and chain as many stitches as needed
to make a chain 15 cm long (picture 1). Adjust the length at your discretion.
Crochet in the opposite direction from the hook:
((1 sc, inc) х 12, and then work sc to the end of the row) х 3
You will have 3 curls (picture 2).
Pull out the thread, leaving the end for sewing (picture 3).

HAIR BUNS (2 pcs)

Use yellow yarn:

1. 6 sc in magic ring (6)
2. inc х 6 (12)
3. (1 sc, inc) х 6 (18)
   4-5. 18 sc (2 rounds)
4. (1 sc, dec) х 6 (12)
5. 6 dec (6)
   Stuff tightly, close the holes,
   leave a long tail: we are going to use
   it for sewing the buns to the head.

ACCESSORIES FOR THE BUNS (2 pcs)

Use red yarn:

1. 6 sc in magic ring (6)
2. inc х 6 (12)
   Fasten off and weave in the yarn end.

Hair decoration

Try on the hair, fixing the strands with pins, as shown in the picture. The
shortest strands No 9 and 10 should be in the middle of the forehead 6
rounds above the eyes (try on your doll, it all depends on the height of the
forehead). These strands are a reference point for the location of the
remaining strands, fix them, focusing on the picture and your taste. I advise
you to fix the strands with glue, or you can sew them on.

Use yellow yarn to embroider the decoration on the forehead (picture) and
use red yarn to carefully make a likeness of a scarlet crystal (picture). Fasten
off all the yarn ends.

Sew the buns 3-4 rounds below the center of the hair. It should be
approximately like in the picture. This is not an easy step, but a very
important one)

I advise you to glue the hair accessories to the buns. It is faster and more
reliable (picture).

Sew the curls with two remaining threads, see the picture.

Tinting

Use a thin brush to apply gently light brown pastel to the upper eyelid
(picture 1), add some pastel to the nose, ears and knees as well (picture 2).
Tint the cheeks with pink pastel.
Use white acrylic paint and a toothpick to add highlights to the eyes
(picture 3)