Amigurumi Narwhal Free Crochet Pattern

Hello dear Amigurumi Knitting Lovers,Today we share a free amigurumi crochet pattern for you.
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Today, the new daily crochet pattern Amigurumi Narwhal Free Crochet Pattern, I want to give you some information about this pattern;

Pattern abbreviations
The following abbreviations have been used in this book:
ch = chain stitch
dc = double crochet
dec = single crochet decrease
hdc = half double crochet
hdc2tog = half double crochet decrease 2 stitches into 1
inc = single crochet increase
inv dec = invisible decrease
inv sc3tog = put hook through front loops of first 2 stitches and
under both loops of third stitch, pull 1 loop through, complete as sc.
sc = single crochet
sc3tog = single crochet decrease 3 stitches into 1
slst = slip stitch
st(s) = stitches
tr = treble crochet
Crochet terminology
The patterns are all written using US crochet terms. If you are used
to working with UK terms, please note the following differences in
stitch names:

TOOLS AND MATERIALS
Yarn
The wonderful thing about amigurumi is that they can be made in any
yarn! For the projects in this book, I have used yarn from Paintbox
Yarns and Rico Designs, with the odd extra thrown in. At the start of
each project you will find a list of the exact yarn used and the number
of balls each sample took.
A thicker yarn will produce a bigger toy than the sample and will
require more yarn. If your chosen yarn is thinner than the sample the
result will be dinkier. When substituting yarns, I always compare the
length and weight of the yarn ball to the one listed in the pattern – if in
doubt it’s best to have an extra ball or you might find yourself playing
a game of yarn chicken!
While the samples are made in smooth yarns with texture added in
other ways, there are many other fibres to explore – try working with
chenille or faux fur as well as plain cotton to get a different result.
Hooks
Finding the right hook is key to a successful amigurumi project.
Luckily there are many options to try out and depending on how you
hold it in your hand some will be more comfortable than others. I hold
my hook like a pen and always use Clover Soft Touch hooks.
Tension (gauge)
To find out if your hook size is right for your yarn try making a small
tension swatch (see Tension swatch). For toys, the aim is to create a
dense, but not stiff, fabric with no gaps between stitches for stuffing
to show through. If the fabric feels too loose, try switching to a
smaller hook. If it’s too stiff and getting the hook into the next stitch is
a struggle, try going up to the next hook size.
Tension swatch
Round 1: 6sc in a magic ring. [6]
Round 2: Inc in all 6 sts. [12]
Round 3: (1sc, inc in next st) 6 times. [18]
Round 4: (2sc, inc in next st) 6 times. [24]
Fasten off.
I recommend the following hook sizes in order to achieve the same
size as the samples:
DK cotton: 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook
Worsted wool: 3.5mm (US E/4) hook
4-ply cotton held double: 3.5mm (US E/4) hook
DK cotton held together with mohair: 3.5mm (US E/4) hook
Remember, these are just guidelines. The main aim is for you to
produce a crochet fabric that you will enjoy working with!
Other tools and materials
As well as the yarn and hook you will also need the following items.
TOY SAFETY EYES
Plain black eyes are used for most of the projects in this book, with a
size chosen that matches the proportion of each toy. But there are
many more unusual, sparkly or realistic toy eyes available online.
Embroidered eyes and sewn-on beads also work well; each element
you choose will add unique personality to your project. However, if
you are giving the toy to a small child, it’s best to stick to safety eyes
or embroidery.
TOY STUFFING
To give the toys their shape you will need to fill them with toy stuffing.
High-loft polyester stuffing is lightweight and versatile; you will find it
in your local haberdashery or online. If you prefer sticking to natural
fibres, pure wool or recycled cotton stuffing is a good alternative.
FABRIC STABILIZER
For some of the flatter details, a stabilizing insert will help the toy to
keep its shape. You can use thick wadding, felt or fabric stabilizer for
this – the key is to look for something flexible that bounces back into
shape when released.
WIRES
To help the animals hold their poses you can reinforce some parts
with wire or craft pipe cleaners (chenille stems). A coated wire, such
as 3mm (28-gauge) garden wire, works well for adding a lot of
support. Doubling up pipe cleaners adds just enough support to gently
adjust the shape.
SEWING PINS AND CLIPS
You will need to have some sewing pins handy when sewing together
the different elements of each creature. When joining larger pieces
together, sewing clips can work better than pins. Sewing clips can be
found in haberdashery shops.
TAPESTRY NEEDLE
For sewing creature parts together, choose a blunt-tipped tapestry
needle with a wide eye, so that the yarn is easy to draw through it.
The blunt tip will stop the yarn from splitting and protect the fingertips
from any prickles!
STITCH MARKERS
Marking the beginning of a round with a stitch marker can be very
helpful for keeping on track. You can use a removable stitch marker,
a safety pin, a bit of contrasting colour yarn or the yarn tail from the
start of the project.
WIRE BRUSH
An ordinary pet hairbrush is the perfect tool for making your crochet
creatures extra fluffy!

Meet the elusive unicorn of the sea – need I say more!
Narwhal horns are simply spectacular, but what’s even more
intriguing is that they aren’t horns at all; in fact, they are more
like an elephant’s tusk, growing like a giant tooth from one
side of the mouth. No one really knows what they use them
for, and little is known about narwhals in general, which, in my
opinion, just adds to their charm. Isn’t it great there are still
mysteries left to uncover?

Dimensions
40cm (15¾in) long
Yarns
Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK (100% cotton), 125m (137yds) per 50g
(1¾oz) ball:
Light Grey: 2 x 50g (1¾oz) balls in Misty Grey (shade 404)
Dark Grey: 2 x 50g (1¾oz) balls in Slate Grey (shade 406)
White: 2 x 50g (1¾oz) balls in Champagne White (shade 403)
Alternatively, you could make the narwhal in hand-dyed speckled yarn
or Rico Ricorumi Spray DK Cotton in Blue (shade 006)
Hooks
3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook
Other tools and materials
Pair 8mm black safety eyes
Craft pipe cleaner (chenille stem)
Small piece of thick felt or fabric stabilizer
Toy stuffing
Sewing pins
Tapestry needle
FUN FACT
A narwhal’s tusk can grow up to
3m (9ft) long and their skin is
packed with as much Vitamin C as
an orange gram for gram!
Tension (gauge)
Tension is not critical for this project, but if you want to match the
pattern shown here, make a small circular swatch using the chosen
yarn and hook (see Tools and materials: Tension swatch for the
swatch pattern).
When made in DK weight cotton with a 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook
the swatch should measure 3.5cm (1⅜in) across.
Project notes
The body of the narwhal is worked
in one piece from the tip to the tail,
mixing different shades of grey to
create a speckled look.
Body
Make 1, start in Dark Grey yarn.
Round 1: 5sc in a magic ring. [5]
Round 2: Inc 5 times. [10]
Round 3: (1sc, inc in next st) 5 times. [15]
Round 4: (2sc, inc in next st) 5 times. [20]
Round 5: (3sc, inc in next st) 5 times. [25]
Round 6: (4sc, inc in next st) 5 times. [30]
Round 7: (5sc, inc in next st) 5 times. [35]
Round 8: (6sc, inc in next st) 5 times. [40]
Round 9: (7sc, inc in next st) 5 times. [45]
Round 10: (8sc, inc in next st) 5 times. [50]
Round 11: (9sc, inc in next st) 5 times. [55]
Round 12: (10sc, inc in next st) 5 times. [60] (photo 1)

Rounds 13–15: Sc in all 60 sts. [3 rounds] (photo 2)

Now add a few stripes of Light Grey to give your narwhal a fierce
expression (optional). Catch the unused colours under the stitches or
float them at the back.
Round 16: Change to Light Grey, sc in all 60 sts. [60]
Rounds 17–18: Change to Dark Grey, sc in all 60 sts. [2 rounds]
Round 19: Change to Light Grey, sc in all 60 sts. [60]
Round 20: Change to Dark Grey, sc in all 60 sts. [60] (photo 3)

Fasten off Dark Grey and continue in Light Grey. The next round
adds a chain section that will become the mouth.
Round 21: Ch18, skip 12 sts, 48sc. [66] (photo 4)

Round 22: 18sc along the ch, working into the back humps, 48sc.
[66] (photo 5)

Round 23: Sc in all 66 sts. [66]
Round 24: (4sc, inv dec) 3 times, 48sc. [63]
Round 25: Sc in all 63 sts. [63]
Round 26: (inv dec, 3sc) 3 times, 48sc. [60] (photo 6)

Rounds 27–32: Sc in all 60 sts. [6 rounds]
Round 33: (inv dec, 2sc) 3 times, 48sc. [57]
Round 34: Sc in all 57 sts. [57]
Round 35: (inv dec, 1sc) 3 times, 48sc. [54]
Rounds 36–50: Sc in all 54 sts. [15 rounds]
Round 51: (4sc, inv dec) 3 times, 36sc. [51]
Round 52: Sc in all 51 sts. [51]
Round 53: (3sc, inv dec) 3 times, 36sc. [48]
Round 54: Sc in all 48 sts. [48]
Round 55: (2sc, inv dec) 3 times, 36sc. [45]
Rounds 56–57: Sc in all 45 sts. [2 rounds]

Round 58: (1sc, inv dec) 3 times, 36sc. [42]
Rounds 59–62: Sc in all 42 sts. [4 rounds]
Round 63: 2sc, inv dec 3 times, 34sc. [39]
Rounds 64–66: Sc in all 39 sts. [3 rounds]
Round 67: (inv dec, 11sc) 3 times. [36]
Round 68: Sc in all 36 sts. [36]
Round 69: (inv dec, 10sc) 3 times. [33]
Round 70: Sc in all 33 sts. [33]
Round 71: (inv dec, 9sc) 3 times. [30]
Round 72: Sc in all 30 sts. [30]
Round 73: (inv dec, 8sc) 3 times. [27]
Round 74: Sc in all 27 sts. [27]
Round 75: (inv dec, 7sc) 3 times. [24]
Round 76: Sc in all 24 sts. [24]
Round 77: (inv dec, 6sc) 3 times. [21]
Round 78: Sc in all 21 sts. [21]
Round 79: (inv dec, 5sc) 3 times. [18]
Round 80: Sc in all 18 sts. [18]
Round 81: (inv dec, 4sc) 3 times. [15]
Round 82: Sc in all 15 sts. [15]
Round 83: (inv dec, 3sc) 3 times. [12]
Round 84: Sc in all 12 sts. [12]
Round 85: Inv dec 6 times. [6]
Fasten off, leaving a tail. Thread tail through front loops with a
tapestry needle and pull tight to close. (photo 7)

Add safety eyes on either side of the mouth opening. (photo 8)

Add lots of toy stuffing to the body shape.
Fold the mouth opening over the top section of the head up to the first
Light Grey line and sew it into place, keeping the line of the mouth
semi-circular. (photo 9)

Flippers
Make 2 in Light Grey yarn.
Round 1: 5sc in a magic ring. [5]
Round 2: Sc in all 5 sts. [5]
Round 3: 2sc, 3sc in next st, 2sc. [7]
Round 4: 3sc, 3sc in next st, 3sc. [9]
Round 5: 4sc, 3sc in next st, 4sc. [11]
Round 6: 5sc, 3sc in next st, 5sc. [13]
Round 7: 6sc, 3sc in next st, 6sc. [15]
Round 8: 7sc, 3sc in next st, 7sc. [17]
Round 9: 8sc, 3sc in next st, 8sc. [19]
Round 10: 9sc, inc in next st, 9sc. [20]
Rounds 11–15: Sc in all 20 sts. [5 rounds]
Round 16: 7sc, inv dec 3 times, 7sc. [17]
Round 17: 6sc, inv dec, 1sc, inv dec, 6sc. [15]
Round 18: 5sc, inv dec, 1sc, inv dec, 5sc. [13]
Round 19: 5sc, inv dec, 6sc. [12]
Round 20: Sc in all 12 sts. [12]
Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. (photo 10)

Flatten the shape down the decrease lines and add a little stuffing.
Sew the flippers to the sides of the body, in line with the eyes.
(photo 11)

Tail tips
Make 2, start in Dark Grey yarn.
Round 1: 5sc in a magic ring. [5]
Round 2: Sc in all 5 sts. [5]
Round 3: 2sc, 3sc in next st, 2sc. [7]
Round 4: 3sc, 3sc in next st, 3sc. [9]
Round 5: 4sc, 3sc in next st, 4sc. [11]
Round 6: 5sc, 3sc in next st, 5sc. [13]
Round 7: 6sc, 3sc in next st, 6sc. [15]
Round 8: 7sc, 3sc in next st, 7sc. [17]
Round 9: 8sc, 3sc in next st, 8sc. [19]
Round 10: 9sc, 3sc in next st, 9sc. [21]
Round 11: Sc in all 21 sts. [21]
Fasten off the first tail tip. Make the second tail tip but do not fasten
off. (photo 12)

Joining the tail
Carry on in Dark Grey yarn.
Round 1: 11sc, bring first tail tip next to the second so that the
increase lines are in the middle, 21sc along the second tail tip, then
work the remaining stitches, 10sc, on the first tip. [42] (photos 13
and 14

Round 2: Sc in all 42 sts. [42]
Round 3: (inv dec, 7sc, sc3tog, 7sc, inv dec) 2 times. [34]
Round 4: Change to Light Grey, (inv dec, 5sc, sc3tog, 5sc, inv dec)
2 times. [26]
Round 5: Sc in all 26 sts. [26]
Round 6: (inv dec, 3sc, sc3tog, 3sc, inv dec) 2 times. [18]
Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. (photo 15)

Cut a small piece of fabric stabilizer so that it matches the shape of
the tail and insert it into the tail. (photo 16)

Place the tail over the tip of the body and sew it in place. (photo 17)

Tusk
Make 1 in White yarn.
Round 1: 5sc in a magic ring. [5]
Rounds 2–5: Sc in all 5 sts. [4 rounds]
Round 6: Inc in next st, 4sc. [6]
Rounds 7–9: Sc in all 6 sts. [3 rounds]
Round 10: Inc in next st, 5sc. [7]
Rounds 11–13: Sc in all 7 sts. [3 rounds]
Round 14: Inc in next st, 6sc. [8]
Rounds 15–17: Sc in all 8 sts. [3 rounds]
Round 18: Inc in next st, 7sc. [9]
Rounds 19–21: Sc in all 9 sts. [3 rounds]
Round 22: Inc in next st, 8sc. [10]
Rounds 23–25: Sc in all 10 sts. [3 rounds]
Round 26: Inc in next st, 9sc. [11]
Rounds 27–29: Sc in all 11 sts. [3 rounds]
Round 30: Inc in next st, 10sc. [12]
Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. Insert a craft pipe cleaner
(chenille stem) into the tusk. Embroider a spiral around the tusk in thin
strands of both Light Grey and Dark Grey to decorate. (photos 18
and 19)