amigurumi, amigurumi free corchet, amigurumi free patterns

Amigurumi Flower Doll Free Crochet Pattern


 Crochet thread, Super Fine Yarn (level 1 in yarn classification) – I used Aunt Lydia’s

Crochet Thread, Size 3, 100% Mercerized Cotton in the colour “Natural”

 Thick and thin novelty yarn for the hair – I used Loops & Threads Mirage in “Black” (since

discontinued) and Isaac Mizrahi’s Sutton Yarn in “East End”

 2 mm Clover Amour hook

 Yarn needle (bent tip helpful for attaching amigurumi parts- see HERE)

 fiberfill

 7.5 mm safety eyes

 Black embroidery floss (for eyelashes)

 Clover lock ring stitch markers

 glue gun, fabric glue (for inside of head to secure hair into place)

 Fabric: patterned for dress, white for boots

 White sewing thread (for boots & dress)

 Pink sharpie (for cheeks)

 Beads: for pearl necklace and boot decorations

 Flower crown: floral/stem wire, plastic flowers and leaves


 I worked in continuous rounds (vs. joined rounds) unless otherwise indicated.

Finished Dimensions: 15 cm/6″ tall


Round 1: 6 sc in Magic Ring. (6 sts)

R2: Inc around. (12 sts)

R3: *Sc 1, Inc*, rep 6 times. (18 sts)

R4: *Sc 2, Inc*, rep 6 times. (24 sts)

R5: *Sc 3, Inc*, rep 6 times. (30 sts)

R6: *Sc 4, Inc*, rep 6 times. (36 sts)

R7: *Sc 5, Inc*, rep 6 times. (42 sts)

R8: *Sc 6, Inc*, rep 6 times. (48 sts)

R9: *Sc 7, Inc*, rep 6 times. (54 sts)

R10: *Sc 8, Inc*, rep 6 times. (60 sts)

R11-19: Sc 60

R20: *Sc 8, Dec*, rep 6 times. (54 sts)

R21: *Sc 7, Dec*, rep 6 times. (48 sts)

R22: *Sc 6, Dec*, rep 6 times. (42 sts)

Place safety eyes between Rounds 19 and 20, about 7 stitches apart- do not fasten in place with

washer backings yet (in case you need to move them later on in relation to the hair). 


Using thick and thin yarn, add hair

Cut long strands of hair, at least double the length you would like the final hair to be (we will be

trimming the hair later on to make it even). Each length of yarn you cut will be equivalent to two

strands of hair as the middle will go through the scalp (this will be explained in more detail down

below). Here we have cut 17″ strands of thick and thin yarn. An easy way to cut even strands of

yarn is to wrap it around a hard-cover book (e.g. children’s book) and cut the strands on only one

end of the book (e.g. the bottom. We have chosen to use thick and thin yarn for our hair as it gives

a lot of dimension with slight waves.

With our technique, we are inserting the yarn strand through the top of the head and then pulling

the other end back out through an adjacent space without making any knots. Thus, both ends of

the yarn are protruding out of the head. This technique enables us to position yarn anywhere we

want and allows the hair to fall more naturally and create a more realistic hair part. After all the

hair strands have been placed, we add glue to the inside of the head to secure the yarn in place,

not allowing the strands to shift or move.

1. The blue star is a very important point as it is where the hair part begins. With our doll, it is

approximately 8 rounds above the eyes. Place the strands in adjacent spaces going

diagonally back from the blue star.

2. Once one side of the hair part is finished, begin adding hair to the other side. Add the yarn

strands between the hair from the other side so that they zigzag each other. After this step,

you have now defined the parting of the hair. Every other step from this point on will be

done to make the hair appear more full.

3. Add hair to the back of the head. Up until this point, all hair strands are added in adjacent

spaces to give the hair maximum density.

4. Fill in any spots along the back and side that need additional hair. It is VERY important that

you only add hair where needed (stagger the spaces- no longer adjacent). You want the

hair to appear full but not actually weigh the head down. DO NOT fill in every spot with hair

as this will cause the head to be too heavy and possibly tilt back. After adding a couple

strands of hair, always check the fullness of the hair by arranging/repositioning the strands

around the face to see how it is looking. This will help you determine which areas will

require more yarn. How much yarn is needed varies depending on the thickness of the

yarn (i.e. you’ll need to add more strands if your yarn is thinner).

Here are some pictures showing the hair being placed on one side of the part. Note how it curves

towards the back.

This is what the inside of the head looks like. You can add some glue at the very end to secure the

yarn into place so that the strands cannot be pulled out and will not shift.

Below you can see how the hair on the other side of the part goes in between and zigzags with the

hair from the other side.

The side part has been defined:

Now hair has been added to the back:

Once you are happy with the hair, add fabric glue to the inside of the head to keep the strands in

place. Secure the eyes, embroider eyelashes, add a nose, stuff the head, and finish up the

bottom! As a last step, trim hair to desired length!

Once you are happy with the hair placement, check the placement of the eyes. If you are happy

with the positioning of the eyes, fasten them in place with the washer backings. Embroider small

nose between eyes using crochet thread.

Now finish head:

R23: *Sc 5, Dec*, rep 6 times. (36 sts)

R24: *Sc 4, Dec*, rep 6 times. (30 sts)

R25: *Sc 3, Dec*, rep 6 times. (24 sts)

Stuff head with fiberfill.

R26: *Sc 2, Dec*, rep 6 times. (18 sts)

R27: *Sc 1, Dec*, rep 6 times. (12 sts)

R28: *Dec*, rep 6 times. (6 sts)

Fasten off and weave in end.

I crocheted a little body which we then sewed onto the bottom of the head.


Round 1: 6 sc in Magic Ring. (6 sts)

R2: Inc around. (12 sts)

R3: *Sc 1, Inc*, rep 6 times. (18 sts)

R4: Sc 18

R5: In back loops only, Sc 18.

R6-13: Sc 18.

Fasten off and leave long end for sewing. Stuff body.

ARMS (make 2)

Round 1: 6 sc in Magic Ring. (6 sts)

R2-9: Sc 6

Fasten off and leave long end for sewing. Stuff lightly.

LEGS (make 2)

Round 1: 6 sc in Magic Ring. (6 sts)

R2: *Sc 1, Inc*, rep 3 times. (9 sts)

R3-16: Sc 9

Fasten off and leave long end for sewing. Stuff lightly.

Sewing Dress & Boots:

 Dress: Using template above as a guideline for sizing, cut strips of fabric and hem

edges. Note that the dimensions shown above are the FINAL dimensions of our dress, so

you need to make the shapes larger, leaving about a 1 cm/0.5″ seam allowance. You may

need to adjust your sizing depending on the final size of your crochet doll (may vary

depending on gauge, what yarn and hook size you use for the body). Draw shapes and

fold fabric towards center line. Sew along edges to secure front and back parts of dress,

leaving a tube in between. Cut along lines, leaving a seam allowance of about 1

cm/0.5″. Invert tube to form dress.

 Boots: Hem top edge of fabric and draw shape. Fold fabric in half and sew along

lines. Leave seam allowance and cut out shapes- invert to form boots.

We slipped the tube dress over the body and then attached the arms onto the sides of the dress

using sewing thread. The thread runs through the arms, the dress, and the body to secure it all

into place!

For the boots, Ryan hemmed the top edge and drew the shapes below. He then folded the sheet

in half and cut out the shape, seaming along the edge. After he inverted the boot, they were ready

to be slipped onto the legs! We attached the legs to the bottom of the body and then slipped the

boots on. Ryan added a gold bead to each boot for a lovely detail as well!


 Attach body onto bottom of head.

 Slip tube dress over body.

 Place arms on either side of the dress and use sewing thread to sew arms and dress onto


 Sew legs onto bottom of body.

 Sew gold bead onto each boot. Place boots onto bottom of legs.


 Add pink blush to the cheeks.

 Sew three beads onto collar to make necklace.

 Create flower crown by wrapping floral wire into a circle, twisting the ends together. Place

flowers onto the wire circle, securing them in place with floral tape (wrap stems to wire

circle) or with hot glue.

The extra long flowing hair, bead details, pretty fabric dresses and flower crowns all add such

lovely details to this dainty doll!

Every time Ryan showed me his progress on adding details to the Primrose Crochet Dolls, I

couldn’t stop squealing! You could also braid her hair or give her ponytails!

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